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The Everglades by kayak and sail

Everglades City to Flamingo through the Wilderness Waterway. Chickees, beaches, no fresh water.

target 2032Februarydream, not a plan
Kayaks in the Ten Thousand Islands
The Ten Thousand Islands · Photo: Everglades NPS, public domain

The idea

Ninety-nine marked miles of mangrove creeks and open bays between Everglades City and Flamingo, sleeping on chickees (a roofed platform on stilts over the water, with a bucket) and on the Cape Sable beaches. You carry every drop of water for the whole trip. No cell coverage. Tides decide which creeks you can use and when.

The sail part is the appeal. The WaterTribe people do this coast in kayaks with outriggers and roller-furling rigs, paddling the creeks and sailing the bays. That is the boat I want for this: small enough for a chickee, enough sail to cross Whitewater Bay with a grin.

“Paddling in the dark through early morning mists and fogs over dead still water made this the best and most mystic day.”uphillhikes.com, solo kayak, Everglades NP

The route

Everglades CityChokoloskeeLopez RiverWatson PlaceLostmans FiveBroad RiverHarney River chickeeShark River chickeeOyster Bay chickeeJoe River chickeeFlamingoN20 nm
The Everglades by kayak and sail — route sketch — schematic, drawn from waypoints, not a chart. Don't navigate by it.
distance
99 miles inside, or 75 on the outside Gulf route
when
November to April. February is the sweet spot
boat
Sailing kayak (Hobie Island or a Balogh-rigged sea kayak)

A sketch of the schedule

Roughly how it goes, from the people who have done it. Numbers to be corrected by weather.

whenwhat
Day 1Everglades City, permit in hand. Chokoloskee to Lopez River.
Day 2Chatham River to Watson Place. Read the sign.
Day 3Lostmans Five. Wind on the bays; sail it.
Day 4Broad River. The Nightmare only at high tide.
Day 5Harney River chickee. First night over the water.
Day 6Shark River to Oyster Bay. Big water, big sky.
Day 7Joe River chickee, or out to a Cape Sable beach if the Gulf is kind.
Day 8Whitewater Bay to Flamingo. Shuttle back north.

Pictures to remember it by

Sweetwater chickee, a camping platform over the water
Sweetwater chickee: the bedroom · Everglades NPS, public domain
Cape Sable beach
Cape Sable, the beach option · Everglades NPS, public domain
A sailing kayak with outriggers
The kind of boat · Mike Baird, CC BY 2.0

When, honestly

2032

A February week with a permit booked ninety days out, a boat that sails, and a pal who doesn't mind no-see-ums. If it goes well, the Everglades Challenge is the graduate version.

Resources

Other people's accounts and the official pages. Read these before believing anything above.